A walking guide to the Cotswold villages of Swinbrook and Asthall

The Swan at Swinbrook is the kind of pub where riders out for a hack stop to cool down, orange juice in one hand, reins in the other. Other drinkers sit on benches, accompanied by the occasional sound of leather on willow from the cricket ground next door and the babble of the River Windrush.

It’s a great spot to start (or finish) a short Sunday walk around the Cotswold villages of Swinbrook and Asthall (roughly two miles). Together, they have it all; picture postcard cottages smothered in roses, a secret church, meandering river, and not just one, but two renowned gastropubs.

A short walk from The Swan into the centre of the village takes you to the small village hall, next to a little brook. There you’ll see St Mary’s church and an array of Cotswold stone houses; from small, quaint cottages, to grand homes with gardens teaming with flowers (and the odd swimming pool).

As the road bends, there’s a footpath down the side of The Old Post Office which leads up the side of the church. The track takes you through the front garden of a little cottage with red roses above the door and through an iron gate. A path to the left then leads out into the meadows. The views are glorious - time it right and you’ll be treated to a display of yellow buttercups and cow parsley.

After crossing a stile and making it to the brow of a small slope you’ll get your first glimpse of the 13th century St Oswald’s church; now standing alone, surrounded by meadows and grazing cattle. If you’re lucky, the door will be open for a peak inside. It’s a special place, with beautifully faded paintings on the wall date back to 1340 and box pews covered in graffiti dated 1844.

For those looking for a longer walk, rather than heading back the way you’ve come, you can turn left after coming back over the cattle grid away from the church and back towards Swinbrook. This takes you through a vale with woodland either side. Once on the lane you can turn right and follow it back into the village (This will add roughly 15 minutes on to the walk).

Back at The Swan, and look out for a stone stile on the bend in front of the pub. This leads out to pasture and along the Windrush. You’ll then hit a small lane surrounded by sheep and grazing ponies. Turn right, over a stone bridge and into Asthall, before making it to the Maytime Inn, just down from the grass triangle. Their rear garden is what pub garden dreams are made of.

Choose between sitting on benches on the grass overlooking the meadows you’ve just walked across, or under white parasols on the patio. It’s a great spot for an orange juice and lemonade or a Pimms. When we were there, the sun was shining and the Swifts were swooping overhead. We didn’t stop for food this time (well, just a bag of crisps), but the Maytime has a wide menu, including meat and fish platters and larger mains like lamb rump, summer veg and Windrush Valley goats curd - something to try another time!

Once you’ve cooled down enough, you can head back to the Swan through Asthall. Come out of The Maytime, turn right and follow the road back down to Swinbrook. After half a mile, you’ll reach a T-junction with the cricket ground in front of you and The Swan to your right. If half a mile is enough to work up a thirst again, then pull up a bench on the Windrush and enjoy a few hours watching other walkers and locals enjoying this perfect slice of The Cotswolds.

The church in Asthall

The Jacobean Asthall Manor

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MUST SEE

St Oswald’s Church

The 13th century church located in the middle of fields between Swinbroook and Widbrook.

The Jacobean Asthall Manor

Based in Asthall, the Manor opens its garden to visitors twice a year and also hosts a biennial exhibition of sculpture in stone in its grounds.
(The infamous Mitford sisters lived here from 1919-1926)

Burford

It’s only a 10 minute drive to Burford; the gateway to the Cotswolds. Ideal for a wander round the shops and an ice cream.